A Voyage to Kanchipuram
Posted By admin in UncategorizedBut after a few years of self imposed exile from the subcontinent, in part enforced by current political realities since 9/11, I chose to return to India, a place I had not seen in 18 years. Yes, I had been to Pakistan, an inextricable component of the subcontinent, as India (or ‘Hindustan’) derives its name from the Indus River, which passes through the heart of present-day Pakistan, emptying into the Arabian Sea. But Pakistan is not India; rather it is merely a small part.
So with some hesitation, I decided to re-visit India. Little did I realize that this visit would evolve into more of a revelation than a reminder. I decided I wanted to go to Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, to see the art of those ancient temples. Kanchipuram has been a ‘destination’ of sorts to the odd traveller for many centuries now, and was first mentioned in the 7th century by the early Chinese explorer Hiuen Tsang, who made no mention of the grand temples there, even though it was known as the ‘city of a thousand temples’. He reserved his few remarks to extolling the benign rule of the Pallava king in addition to the piety and bravery of the local populace.
Kanchi, as it was known at the time, was also a Buddhist centre. It is believed that Bodhidharma, who went to China in the 6th century to spread Buddhism, is originally from there, and it is said that the Buddha himself visited this once great city. It was known as a centre of learning, reputedly second only to Benares, and served as the capital of the Pallavas, who ruled over extensive areas of south India from the 3rd to the 9th century.
But curiously no one I’ve met has ever been there, save for the odd ex-pat saddhu/mystic types who still thrive in 21st century India, or the occasional art dealer, one of whom first mentioned Kanchipuram to me last summer, suggesting I go. The town can hardly be termed a tourist destination as I saw only one stray backpacker, sprawled on the lush grounds of the Kailasanathar Temple, and while one finds a cursory mention in travel guides, Kanchipuram remains a minor footnote to the attractions of Chennai (formerly Madras) and the more popular beach/temple site of Mahaballipuram.
Getting there was remarkably cheap and easy, a two hour ride on a local train from Chennai with none of the crowds one might expect. And where else in the world could one board a train for two hours for 35¢ (15 rupees)? Not unexpectedly, the five minute rickshaw ride to the station from our modest hotel cost more than the train ticket!
The inner sanctum is odd. Currently there is a restoration project underway, the second of its type at this location. The first, a British effort undertaken in the early 20th century, is a miserable failure with crudely applied light grey cement repairs completing the worn and decaying original brown sandstone carving. The second is no better as the decoration of the main walls in the primary temple area is being totally ‘restored’.
But there is much to see, with more good art intact from an early period than I have ever seen in one place during my travels in Asia. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the images are an incredible statement to the artistry of the period and the dedication of the Pallava kings to their beliefs. A handful of Indian tourists wandered through the site as we took our time, absorbing the incredible sculpture as well as the hidden alcoves containing wall paintings from the same early period. It was an exceptional feast for the eyes, a soothing and awe inspiring experience.